Ipoh! Malaysia’s 4th largest city and home to 840,000 predominantly Chinese people, the Lost World of Tambun, tin mining pools, delicious noodles and an ageing population full of friendly folk. Growing up in Kuala Lumpur, land of the large, noisy and sometimes ugly crowd, it was a very nice respite to get two days in the very beautiful Ipoh.
Day one in Ipoh: a-walking we will go
Departing from Kuala Lumpur, it took us 2 hours to reach the first of our stops which was the Gua Tambun Cave paintings. Estimated to be 2 to 5,000 years old, (the sign at the entrance claims 10,000) the Neolithic rock art were discovered in the 1950s. Truly a wonder to behold, with the locals saying that our ancestors probably created the art while on boats as Ipoh used to be under water at that time (the locals even found sea shells by these caves!). After our sojourn we had to, of course, have a second breakfast – so we found some excellent hor fun and pan mee at the famous Loke Wooi Kee. Thereafter we checked out some bundle shops nearby before heading off to our next adventure Tasik Cermin.
As you drive up to Tasik Cermin you will see lots of coffee shops left and right. Park and head to your left to visit the cooling Green Stone cave, which totally cuts you off from the steamy hot outside world. I have to say I was pretty astounded. I love the outdoors but this limestone cave just blew me away, somewhere I could visit daily if I could. It’s a short trek inside and not that large, so go when there aren’t hoards of visitors. Once you finish goggling the caves, come back out and have a drink at Kin Loong White Coffee, and browse the tourist shops next to it (tip: buy the local coffee packs on sale! Delicious and very affordable, making great presents). Again, with the caves nearby, the temperature stays cool and comfortable.
Heading across the parking lot, we found the miners tunnel which would lead us to Tasik Cermin. But alas the tunnel was partially flooded so instead of walking all the way to the lake, we went halfway and posed for a photo (I only wish they hadn’t so heavily commercialised the area with their gates, and tickets). You can then opt to have a parting drink at the next area on the way out; Lake View Café where you can watch other victims get taken through a tunnel into another lake.
As this was about the time to check in, we trekked to our hotel (everything is 10-15 minutes away in Ipoh) for a snack and swim. We had decided to stay in the centre of the old town to check out the heritage trail and the myriad of shops to be found around the infamous Concubine Lane. The Belakang Kong Heng was a pleasant surprise! Nestled within towering trees and beautiful creepers, it cut us off from the main hustle and bustle of the road. A nice respite, though a little decrepit on the inside, it was still enjoyable with super balconies. We grabbed some durian, some egg tarts from down the lane and headed to the pool that overlooked the hot, sweaty tourists below. Our afternoon trip down Concubine Lane was cut short due to rain but I heavily recommend going there for the interesting tourist trinkets (intimacy games etc!) and the Harry Potter style café, Platform Coffee.
Dinner was at the well-known Ipoh Stadium Food Court (open for brekkie, lunch and dinner) where we shared meaty satay (no fat thank goodness), succulent steamed chicken rice, fragrant kicap bean sprouts, fruit rojak and friendly chit chat. Be warned, the chicken rice seller gets swamped so try to arrive early.
Day two: hiking calls
Morning saw us at the Kledang Hill Trail 4.9, which we took the wrong way round, but which was heavenly after all! We hiked steep tarmac road and steps up and then took the 4.9 trail down. Next time we’ll do it the other way around. Lots of other friendly hikers, some monkeys and some dogs. Lovely morning out. We then met some friends for elevenses at Suka Vegetarian Café. Great coffee, yummy wantan mee and lovely little fruit shop next door to stock up.
For the next visit
Stay at the Banjaran Hotsprings Resort (if someone would like to sponsor me?), check out more temples, finally do the heritage trail, hike more around the Neolithic art site (but bring mozzy spray this time!), maybe stay where our friends stayed at the more relaxing M Roof in the suburbs. We would also do a day trip to Cameron Highlands (one hour from Ipoh), perhaps a few days on Pangkor Island (1.5 hours from Ipoh), check out Gua Tempurung, do rock climbing or visit Lost World of Tambun. In short, Ipoh has lots to offer! Check it out next time you want to cuti cuti Malaysia. Enjoy!
